Amadablam Expedition

Today, you will land in the true Himalayan Capital of the world, Kathmandu. Our team will meet you at TIA, and they will take you to your hotel accommodation in the city.

Check in and rest after your long, tiring flight. In the evening, you will meet all your fellow climbers and also our guide. He will present a short briefing on our Ama Dablam expedition.

After this briefing, you all can then bond over a dinner of delicious Nepalese cuisine.

Today, in the morning, we will proceed with our guide to fulfill all the essential formalities and permits required for our Ama Dablam expedition.

We will also attend a short orientation regarding our Ama Dablam expedition with Island Peak climbing at the Department of Tourism, after which our day will be free to check our gear and purchase or rent necessary supplies.

We will also explore the Kathmandu metropolis a little and see its significant monuments, such as Swayambhunath and Boudhanath.

NB

We encourage you to go to bed early, as we may need to depart around 2 AM from Kathmandu for Ramechhap to reach Lukla. This is due to the fact that during the Fall and Spring seasons, direct flights to Lukla are frequently redirected to this airport instead of TIA. Life Himalayan Trekking will offer you a private 4-wheel vehicle for the Ramechhap transfer.

In the very early morning, we will take the most extraordinary and scenic mountain flight to Lukla. While Gaurishankar, Everest, and Kanchenjunga will tower over us all around during the flight, as soon as we land, Kongde Ri will already be present to add more spice.

Here, we will have our meeting with the porters and guides who will take care of all our needs and safety. Then, continuing the thrill, we will take a short downhill trek to Phakding, traversing the Dudh Koshi Valley through its quaint little villages of Chheplung, Chaurikharka, Thadokoshi, and Ghat.

We will continue our hike following the Dudh Koshi River currents and reach Benkar. From here, our route will uplift towards Monjo, where we will officially enter Sagarmatha National Park.

Then, we will ascend gently through Jorsale towards the iconic landmark of the Hilary Suspension Bridge. After we cross this bridge with Mount Taboche, we will climb steeply uphill along the Top Danda slope to reach Namche, where we will have our first closer view of Everest.

This day is dedicated to the proper adaptation to the high Khumbu dry air. Namche is a good spot to rest and look around, but we can take the remarkable opportunity to hike up to the Japanese-made highest luxury hotel on the planet, Everest View, high above the Syangboche cliff.

Once we are down at its terrace for a nice breakfast or lunch, we will be encircled by an extraordinary amphitheater of Nuptse, Lhotse, Everest, Thamserku, Kongde Ri, Taboche, and, of course, Ama Dablam will also be visible.

On our return, we can trek down through Khumjung Village and see the Yeti skull kept in its monastery.

As we leave Namche following the route that will lead us upward to Deboche, we will pass through the beautiful settlements of Kyanjuma and Sanasa.

The route will then run along the stony slope of the Phungi Thenga (3250 m) from where the iconic Tengboche monastery is two hours’ ascent farther.

Once at Tengboche, Ama Dablam will show more clearly its beautiful features, proving why it is considered the most stunning Himalayan Summit in the world. From here, we will make a small downhill descent towards Imja Khola.

The hemp bridge will lead us across from where we will take the path that will elevate to Deboche Village.

Leaving from Deboche, we will start resuming our trek along the now slightly desolate landscape. Around a 200 m steep stretch will carry us upward to the Upper Pangboche (3900 m), where stands the timeless monastery said to have housed the authentic Yeti skull one time.

Our ascending trail will be lined by more and more sacred yet very beautiful Mani Walls and prayer flags. We will keep on proceeding up through Orsho, Shomare, and Tsuro Wog before we end our today’s journey in Dingboche.

Welcome to the heavenly playground of Lhotse, Thamserku, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Taboche, and Cholatse.

Instead of staying in Dingboche, we will engage in a short acclimatization hike towards Chhukung Village. The village lies in the calm Imja Khola Valley, and the route to this village runs alongside the magical, enormous walls of the Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Nuptse peaks.

The dramatic path consists of rocky outcrops and several small icy streams, so we have to be extra vigilant. After merely ascending for around 2 to 3 hours, we will arrive at Chhukung, beautifully surrounded by the huge pyramidal structures of Makalu, Kongde Ri, Karyolung, Cholatse, Taboche, Numbur, Lhotse, and Island Peaks.

If you are not too tired, you can also progress further to ascend the rocky slopes of 5546 m high Chhukung Ri. However, we suggest you rest and only take short, restful walks in the village.

As a further preparation for our Ama Dablam expedition, we will now set out to conquer the Island or Imja Tse Summit. With this aim in mind, today we will reach the High Camp of the Island Summit.

The route after Chhukung will head south along the rugged terrain for a while. Then, heading east, we will ascend the icy glacial landscape of the Imja Glacier and then the Lhotse Glacier.

Soon enough, we will be standing just beneath the massive southwest wall of the Imja Tse Peak. This location acts as the base camp of this peak, but we will advance upward for around 300 steep terrain till we are at the High Camp of the summit.

Here, our team of Sherpas will establish tents for our overnight stay. We must retire early as we will be making our ascent of Island Peak very early at around 2 AM in the morning.

Early wakening at midnight, followed by a light breakfast, we will don our attire and gear and set forth to conquer the Island Summit. From High Camp, the route will bend along the icy and rocky surfaces.

We will keep on progressing up for around three hours, after which we will reach the glacier wall. Here, we will put on our mountaineering gear and use a ladder to traverse the crevasses.

An ice axe may have to be used occasionally, along with a rope, which our guide will instruct us on. As we stand around 200 m beneath the summit, we will have to seek the help of a fixed rope and a jumar to traverse the challenge of a 45-degree steep slope.

Finally, the summit of Island Peak is ready to embrace us with the overwhelming views of Thamserku, Lhotse, Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Pumori, Cholatse, and Mother Everest.

A brief photo session will be followed after which we will be back at the High Camp for warm drink and meal. Then, we will descend back to Chhukung for the overnight stay.

Today, we will descend towards Pangboche, which will be our final village settlement before we commence our Ama Dablam expedition.

From Chhukung, we will bypass the villages of Dingboche, Orsho, and Shomare to reach Pangboche. A little exploration of its tiny yet time-steeped monastery is worth a while.

Today marks the beginning of our real challenge of the Ama Dablam expedition. From Pangboche, we will momentarily follow the narrow route of the Everest Base Camp.

Then, we will change our direction and traverse the Imja Khola. We will then ascend sharply along the lonely, rugged terrain till we arrive at the moraine wall of the glacier.

This is the spot for setting up our Base Camp of Ama Dablam Summit. We will pitch our tents and then check out the area for a while.

We will spend one extra day at the Ama Dablam Base Camp, where our Sherpa crew will hold a puja ceremony to receive permission for the summit climb from their deities and ensure our safety and success.

Afterward, we can engage in a technical rock wall climbing session with our guide, further enhancing our mountaineering skills that will be essential for conquering the Ama Dablam Summit.

These are the days set aside for mountaineering and triumphing on the Ama Dablam Summit. After the base camp of the summit, we will create two to three intermediate or higher camps to acclimatize and wait for the perfect weather window to attack the summit.

We will traverse the routes to Camp I and Camp II, spend nights there, and descend to the base camp. This rotation plan will ensure our further acclimatization before the final stage of our Ama Dablam expedition.

The final stage of the expedition will largely depend on the weather and also on the physical health of the climber. So, we cannot follow the exact details as we had planned.

Our lead mountaineering guide will make the decision as appropriate. However, we have several reserve days, so each climber will have sufficient alternate days to attack the summit.

However, remember that by the evening of day 27 of our Ama Dablam expedition, we must be at the base camp of the summit.

Our route plan to the Ama Dablam Summit

Ascend from Ama Dablam Base Camp to Camp I, 5700 m, 6 to 7 hours

This route between the base camp to Camp I of the Ama Dablam Summit will be the longest one in our entire Ama Dablam expedition. By the end of the day, we will gain 1100 m in altitude, which can be quite demanding.

Yet, the route is pretty simple, beautiful, and non-technical that traverses the rocky meadow, avoiding the glacial path. En route, Numbur, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, and Lhotse will keep on spreading their splendor.

As we stand at the final stretch to reach Camp I,  the route will take a bit of a demanding turn as we will need to navigate several rock steps and boulders. However, it is completely manageable without using ropes.

Ascend from Camp I to Camp II, 6000 m, 3 to 4 hours

The route that we will be traversing to Camp II from Camp I will be very short yet very technical and most demanding. Today, the elevation gain will be only around 300 m, but this is where the real thrill exists.

Progressing from Camp I, we will step into the glacial terrain where we will ascend over the snowy, rocky granite ridge, facing some hazardous traverses in between.

Then, soon enough, we will be in front of the 5960 m high Yellow Tower, the most challenging segment of the Ama Dablam expedition. This section is graded above 5 because we will have to climb over the exposed walls with the help of fixed ropes and a jumar.

Once through, we will be in the small Camp II of the Ama Dablam space with somewhat confined space.

Ascend from Camp II to Camp III, 6400 m, 3 to 5 hours

Between Camp II and Camp III, we will have to tackle the sharp steep 400 m altitude, which seems short and simple but is quite technical. However, this route will be less challenging than the one that we have faced before between Camp I and Camp II.

After Camp II, the snowy trail will be steep and more exposed, which will ascend us over the ridge that inclines at 60 degrees. Here, we will find the Grey Tower, from which the route continues to the knife-edge ridge of the Mushroom Tower (6250 m).

After this tower, we will have a 600 m sharp drop, from where we will continue our climb towards Camp III. This camp is a land of broad snow where we will be sleeping before we assault the Ama Dablam Summit.

Climb the Ama Dablam Summit, 6812 m, and trek back to Ama Dablam Base Camp, 10 to 12 hours

We will set forth on our summit journey to Ama Dablam from Camp III at around 2 to 3 AM. The climb will be less demanding, which will take place mainly over the snowy slopes and walls of the summit itself that are inclined at 55 to 65 degrees.

Using our gear, probably ropes, a jumar, and ice axes, we will reach the peak within 4 hours. As we wave our flags with pride, we can also look around some of the tallest peaks on the planet: Everest, followed by Makalu, Chamlang, Cho Oyu, Thamserku, Lhotse, Kangtega, Pumori, Nuptse, Island, and Baruntse.

Based on the climate and wind speed, we will spend some time at this beautiful summit, after which we will descend to Camp III first for our hot beverage and meal.

Then, following the same technical trail, we will make our return to the Ama Dablam Base Camp for the night.

NOTE

Please understand that we will not set up Camp III compulsorily; it will be an optional setup based on the weather and the physical well-being of the climbers.

Our guide leader will decide whether to set up Camp III and start the Summit attempt from there. There will be no additional costs for setting up Camp III if needed.

Also, please know that the plan that we have stated here can be changed based on the climate and health of the climbers. Our climbing guide leader has the authority to change or adjust the climbing plan accordingly.

Our Ama Dablam expedition with Island peak 32 days adventure is now slowly approaching its end. We will leave our base camp and then start to climb down, leaving behind the Himalayan behemoths.

We will bypass Pangboche and Tengboche until we are inside the Dudh Koshi Valley again, where warmer air is welcome on our skin. Namche Bazaar will soon be reached, where the warmth and comfort will certainly be very encouraging.

A very early morning Himalayan flight will transport us either to TIA or Ramechhap. If our arrival takes place at Ramechhap, then Life Himalaya Trekking’s private 4-wheel vehicle will be at the airport for our transfer to Kathmandu.

Relax, rest, and pamper yourself with a massage or spa as you have rightfully earned this privilege.

You will have a free day today, and we have not planned any activities for you. So you can look around the city and see its monuments on your own, which you may have missed on your earlier day.

If you desire, we can also organize a private guided tour for you. In the evening, Life Himalaya Trekking will organize a grand gala dinner for you, celebrating your success in the Ama Dablam expedition.

We will also present you with an achievement certificate for the successful climbs of Island Peak and Ama Dablam.

Today, you will part ways with the beautiful Kathmandu today. With full of memories from your achievement on the Ama Dablam expedition, you will begin the long journey back home. Life Himalaya Trekking will be with you till TIA.

NOTE

If you only like to trek up to the Ama Dablam Base Camp, then we also offer you the Ama Dablam Base Camp trek package, a short yet very comfortable journey up to the foot of the beautiful jewel of the Khumbu.