Maulendo opita ku Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Annapurna, Makalu, Manaslu, ndi zina zotero ndi zitsanzo za maulendo a 7500m-8000m pamwamba pa Kukwera ku Nepal.

Misewu ya Himalaya ku Nepal ndi yotchuka kwambiri pakati pa anthu okwera mapiri padziko lonse lapansi. Nepal ili ndi nsonga 8 mwa 10 zazitali kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi. Kuchokera pakukwera kwamasewera mpaka akatswiri odziwa kufa, maulendo akupezeka pakati pa misewu yamapiri aku Nepali.

Pano, tikambirana za maulendo a 7000m ndi pamwamba pa nsonga za 8000m za Nepal. Nepal ili ndi nsonga zamapiri 65 zomwe zili pakati pa 7000m mpaka 7500m. Chiwerengero cha nsonga zomwe zili pamwamba pake ndi pansi pa 8000m ndi 24. Pali nsonga za 72 pamwamba pa 7000m zololedwa ndi Boma la Nepal paulendowu.

Chifukwa chiyani 7500m & 8000m Kukwera?

Kukwera mapiri okwera mamita 7500 ndi mamita 8000 ndi chimodzi mwazovuta kwambiri pakukwera mapiri. "Malo opha anthu" ndi mapiri okwera omwe amabweretsa mavuto aakulu. Mpweya wochepa komanso nyengo yovuta zimapangitsa kuti zikhale zovuta kupuma. Kukonzekera mosamala n'kofunika kwambiri. Kukonzekera nakonso n'kofunika kwambiri. Zonsezi n'zofunika kwambiri kuti munthu akhale otetezeka. Okwera mapiri amapambana mapiri otere kuti amve ngati akukwera mapiri aatali kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi. Komanso, kukwera mapiriwo kumafuna luso lochulukirapo komanso mphamvu zambiri.

Koma chofunika kwambiri n’chakuti pamafunika kuzindikira mphamvu ya mapiri. Mphamvu imeneyi imapangitsa kuti zomwe zachitikazo zikhale zokhutiritsa kwambiri. Vuto ndilo cholinga chachikulu cha okwera mapiri ambiri. Mawonekedwe ndi chifukwa chachiwiri. Kumverera kwa ubale ndi okwera mapiri ndiko kotsiriza.

Kukwera 7500m & 8000m Kukwera ku Nepal?

Nepal ili ndi nsonga zodziwika bwino padziko lonse lapansi za 7500m ndi 8000m. Iwo amalimbikitsa anthu kukwera padziko lonse lapansi. Nawa maulendo otchuka:

Everest Expedition (8848m)

Phiri la Everest ndi phiri lalitali kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi. Ndi cholinga chachikulu cha okwera mapiri ambiri. Ulendo wa Everest ndi wovuta chifukwa cha kutalika kwake kwakukulu. Nyengo ndi malo sizikudziwika. Okwera phiri nthawi zambiri amayesa kukwera phirilo kudzera mu njira ya South Col. Njirayi imafunika kuzolowera mosamala. Mumafunikanso kukonzekera kwambiri. Kukongola koyima pamalo okwera kwambiri padziko lapansi kumakakamiza ambiri kuti achite zovuta izi.

Dhaulagiri Expedition (8167m)

Dhaulagiri ndi phiri lachisanu ndi chiwiri pa mapiri apamwamba kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi. Dhaulagiri Expedition imadziwika ndi kukula kwake kwakukulu komanso kukwera kwake pamwamba pa nthaka yozungulira. Kukwerako ndi kokwera kwambiri. Ndi kwaukadaulo kwambiri, kotero n'kovuta kwa oyamba kumene kukwera. Northeast Ridge ndiye njira yodziwika bwino komanso yofikirika kwambiri. Ili ndi malo otsetsereka a ayezi ndi chipale chofewa. Kukwerako ndi kwaukadaulo. Kuli kutali kwambiri. Izi zimapangitsa malowa kukhala okondedwa kwambiri kwa odziwa bwino kukwera.

Kanchenjunga Expedition (8586m)

Kanchenjunga ndi phiri lachitatu lalitali kwambiri. Limadziwika ndi njira zake zokongola koma zovuta. Ulendo wa Kanchenjunga uli pamalo obisika kwambiri. Chifukwa chake, uli ndi zochitika zapadera kuposa Everest. Kukwera kwake ndi kwaukadaulo. Kungaphatikizepo kukwera miyala, ayezi, ndi chipale chofewa. South Face ndiye wotanganidwa kwambiri. Zimatenga nthawi yambiri komanso luso lochuluka pamalo okwera.

Annapurna Expedition (8091m)

Annapurna ndi phiri lachisanu pa mapiri okwera kwambiri. Annapurna Expedition ndi imodzi mwa mapiri oopsa kwambiri okwera, omwe amafa kwambiri. Njira ya South Face imadziwika ndi luso lake lapamwamba. Imadziwikanso ndi chiopsezo cha chipale chofewa. Komabe, chiopsezo ndi mawonekedwe okongola zimakopa okwera mapiri odziwa bwino ntchito yawo. Amakwera mapiri kuti apindule kwambiri ndi masewera oopsa. Kukwera phiri la Annapurna ndi gawo lofunika kwambiri kwa okwera mapiri ndi okwera mapiri.

Makalu Expedition (8485m)

Makalu ndi phiri lachisanu lalitali kwambiri. Lili ndi mawonekedwe abwino a piramidi komanso mapiri otsetsereka. Njira yodziwika bwino imadutsa ku Northwest Ridge. Okwera phiri ayenera kuyenda pa miyala ndi ayezi. Kukwera kwake sikudzaza anthu ambiri ngati Everest. Makalu Expedition imapereka mwayi wokhala payekha komanso wovuta. Okwera phiri ayenera kukhala okonzeka. Makalu ili ndi nyengo yoipa. Ayeneranso kukonzekera mavuto ake aukadaulo.

Manaslu Expedition (8163m)

Manaslu ndi phiri lachisanu ndi chitatu lalitali kwambiri. Ndi lodziwika bwino ngati njira ina m'malo mwa Everest. Njira yodziwika bwino imatsatira Northeast Face. Imakhala ndi kusakaniza miyala, ayezi, ndi kukwera chipale chofewa. Manaslu Expedition imapereka ulendo wochepa kwambiri. Ili ndi mawonekedwe okongola a Himalaya. Kukwerako n'kosavuta komanso kovuta. Kukwerako kuli ndi mapiri okwera. Izi zingafunike luso laukadaulo komanso kulimbitsa thupi.

Uliwonse wa maulendowa uli ndi zovuta zake ndi ubwino wake. Ndi zolinga zofunika. Otsatira enieni okwera mapiri okwera akuyembekezera mwachidwi.

Kodi nyengo yabwino kwambiri yokwera 7500m & 8000m ndi iti?

Spring (Kumapeto kwa April mpaka Kumayambiriro kwa June)

Spring ndi nthawi yabwino kwambiri yokwera nsonga zazitali, monga 7500m ndi 8000m. Mu nyengo ino, kutentha kumakhala kokwera pang'ono kusiyana ndi nyengo zina. Izi zimachepetsa mwayi wozizira komanso kuzizira. Choncho, nyengo siipa. Ili ndi mikuntho yochepa komanso matalala ochepa kwambiri. Izi zimapangitsa kukwera kukhala kovuta kwa okwera. Nthawi yochulukirapo imapezeka masana. Okwera ena amakhala ndi nthawi yochulukirapo yokwera kapena kutsika. Komabe, okwera mapiri amayenera kuyang'ana ma avalanches ndi nyengo yomwe ikusintha mwachangu. Izi ndizothekabe.

Chilimwe (June mpaka August)

Chilimwe ndi nyengo yamvula m'malo ambiri okwera. Izi ndi zoona kumapiri a Himalaya. Nyengo ino ili ndi mvula yambiri. Amayambitsa mafunde ambiri ndi kugumuka kwa nthaka chifukwa amasungunula chipale chofewa ndi ayezi. Monsoon imathanso kubweretsa chinyezi chambiri. Zimaipitsa malo okwera komanso zimapangitsa kuti maulendo aatali akhale oipa. Komanso, mphepo yamkuntho ndi mitambo yambiri imatha kusokoneza anthu. Izi zimakhudza kuyenda ndi kukwera. Pazifukwa izi, nthawi yachilimwe nthawi zambiri si nthawi yoyenera kukwera kumapiri.

Autumn (Kumapeto kwa Seputembala mpaka Kumayambiriro kwa Novembala)

Yophukira imakhalanso yoyenera kukwera mapiri aatali. Mvula yamkuntho yatsala pang’ono kutha. Tsopano tili ndi thambo loyera komanso kouma. Nyengo imakhala yochepa kwambiri kuposa nthawi yachisanu. Koma, kumakhalabe kozizira, kumapereka mwayi kwa okwera kukwera. Ma avalanches amakhala ochepa kwambiri m'nyengo yozizira. Palinso zoopsa zina zachilengedwe zochepa. Izi zikufanizidwa ndi nyengo yachilimwe. Komabe, masikuwo ndi aafupi. Choncho, wokwera mapiri amakhala ndi maola ochepa oti agwire ntchito. Ndipo usiku kumakhala kozizira. Koma nyengo yoipa siilepheretsa anthu ambiri okwera mapiri. Amasankhabe nthawi yophukira chifukwa nyengo imakhala yokhazikika.

Zima (December mpaka February)

Zima ndizovuta kwambiri kukwera. Iwo ndi ovuta kwambiri komanso ovuta. Kutentha kumatsika kwambiri. Nthawi zambiri amapita pansi pa kuzizira. Izi zimawonjezera chiopsezo cha chisanu. Zimayambitsanso chiopsezo cha hypothermia. Zima zimakhala ndi mphepo yamkuntho komanso matalala ambiri. Amapangitsa kuti misewu yokwerera ikhale yoopsa kwambiri. Zimapangitsanso kuti zikhale zovuta kuyenda. Kuzizira kumatha kuziziranso zida. Izi zimawonjezera zovuta za kukwera. Masana amachepetsa nthawi yokwera. Kuopsa kwa chigumukire ndi ngozi zina m'nyengo yozizira kwawonjezeka. Amapangitsa kukwera koopsa. Chotsatira chake, okwera mapiri nthawi zambiri amapewa nyengo yozizira chifukwa cha mikhalidwe yovutayi.

Kukonzekera Kukwera kwa 7500m & 8000m?

Kukonzekera kukwera 7500m kapena 8000m kumafunika kukonzekera mosamala. Pamafunikanso kuphunzitsidwa mwamphamvu thupi ndi chidziwitso chakuya cha kukwera mapiri okwera. Nazi mfundo zofunika kuziganizira:

Maphunziro Akuthupi

Kukwera m'mwamba kumafuna kulimbitsa thupi kwapadera. Chitani zonse zolimbitsa thupi zamtima. Komanso, yesetsani kuchita masewera olimbitsa thupi komanso kuchita masewera olimbitsa thupi. Yang'anani pakupanga mphamvu za mwendo, mphamvu ya aerobic, komanso kukhazikika kwapakati. Gwiritsani ntchito maphunziro oyerekeza okwera. Izi zingaphatikizepo kukwera maulendo kapena kukwera malo okwera kwambiri. Idzathandiza thupi lanu kuti lichepetse mpweya wa okosijeni.

Acclimatization

Kukhazikika koyenera ndikofunikira. Zimalepheretsa matenda okwera. Konzani kukwera kwanu kuti mukhale ndi masiku okwera pang'onopang'ono ndi masiku ovomerezeka. Gwiritsani ntchito nthawi pamalo okwera pang'onopang'ono kuti thupi lanu lizolowere kufupikitsa mpweya wa okosijeni. Kuzolowera kumtunda kumachepetsa chiopsezo cha AMS. Zimachepetsanso chiopsezo cha HAPE ndi HACE. Iwo ndi mitundu ya matenda okwera.

Maluso aukadaulo

Mufunika luso lapamwamba lokwera. Mufunikanso luso la kukwera madzi oundana ndi matanthwe ndi kuyenda m’malo ovuta—yesani kugwiritsa ntchito ma crampon, nkhwangwa za ayezi, ndi zida zina zokwerera. Phunzirani momwe mungadutse ming'alu. Komanso, phunzirani momwe mungathanirane ndi mafunde. Phunzirani kuthana ndi nyengo yovuta.

Zida ndi Zida

Sungani zida zapamwamba kwambiri. Iyenera kukhala yapadera komanso yoyenera pazovuta kwambiri. Zidazi zimaphatikizapo hema wazaka zinayi. Ilinso ndi chikwama chogona cha nyengo yozizira komanso zovala zotentha. Okwera amafunikira zingwe, zomangira, zipewa, ma crampons, nkhwangwa za ayezi, ndi zida za avalanche. Onetsetsani kuti zida zonse zili bwino ndipo ndinu odziwa kugwiritsa ntchito.

Logistics ndi Zilolezo

Pezani zilolezo ndi zilolezo zokwerera. Amasiyana malinga ndi dera komanso pachimake. Konzani chithandizo chothandizira. Izi zikuphatikizapo kukhazikitsa msasa, kupeza chakudya, ndi kukonza zoyendera. Gwirizanani ndi owongolera am'deralo ndi othandizira othandizira. Iwo akwera pamwamba. Iwo angapereke chithandizo chamtengo wapatali.

Health and Safety

Pitani kukayezetsa mokwanira kuti muwonetsetse kuti ndinu oyenera kukwera malo okwera. Lankhulani ndi dokotala wodziwa zachipatala chapamwamba kuti mupeze uphungu waumwini. Nyamulani zida zothandizira zoyamba zonse ndipo khalani okonzekera zadzidzidzi. Dzidziwitseni nokha ndi zizindikiro za matenda okwera ndikudziwa momwe mungayankhire ngati zichitika.

Kukonzekera Maganizo

Kukonzekera kwa malingaliro ndi gawo lofunikira la njirayi. Amafunikira zofunikira zamaganizo. Zothandizira izi zimalola kulimbana ndi zovuta. Mikhalidwe ingakhale yabwino. Pali kusungulumwa, kuzizira, ndi kugwira ntchito molimbika. Njira zimenezi zithandizanso kusunga kuganiza bwino. Adzathandiza kupanga zisankho zabwino pamavuto. Zindikirani: Muyenera kudziwa momwe mungathanirane ndi matenda amtunda ndi nyengo yoipa. Muyenera kutsatira dongosolo lokhazikitsidwa ndi dongosolo la izi.

Nyengo ndi Mikhalidwe

Fufuzani za nyengo ya derali komanso kukwera kwa tsiku lomwe mukufuna kukwera. Zinthu zimatha kukhudza kukwera kwanu kwambiri, komanso inu

muyenera kukhala okonzeka kusintha njira yanu malinga ndi nyengo. Kudziwa nyengo zanyengo zomwe mukufuna kukwera ndizothandiza. Zimathandiza pokonzekera koyenera. Kuthana ndi madera ofunikirawa kungapangitse kukwera kwa 7500m kapena 8000m kukhala kotetezeka komanso kopambana.

Ibibazo

Ndi nsonga iti ya 7000m yomwe ili yabwino kukwera?

Pumori (7161m) nthawi zambiri amadziwika kuti ndiye nsonga yabwino kwambiri ya 7000m kukwera. Izi ndichifukwa zimaphatikiza zovuta zaukadaulo ndi malingaliro abwino. Izi zikuphatikiza malingaliro a Everest ndi Lhotse. Amapereka kusakaniza kwabwino kwa kukwera kwa miyala ndi ayezi, kupangitsa kukhala nsonga yabwino yokonzekera kukwera kokwera.

Kodi nsonga yotetezeka kwambiri yamamita 8000 kuti mukwere ndi iti?

Cho Oyu (8188m) ndiye nsonga yotetezeka kwambiri ya 8000m kukwera. Izi ndichifukwa cha njira yake yosavuta komanso zovuta zochepa. Kukhazikika kwanyengo komanso malo osaopsa kwambiri kumapangitsa kukhala chisankho chodziwika bwino kwa okwera omwe akufunafuna nsonga yawo yoyamba ya 8000m.

Kodi mungakhale nthawi yayitali bwanji pamwamba pa 8000m?

Okwera amalangizidwa kuti asakhale pamwamba pa 8000m, yotchedwa "death zone," kwa maola opitilira 24-48. Kuperewera kwakukulu kwa okosijeni pamalo okwerawa kungayambitse matenda oopsa monga high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE) ndi high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE).

Ndi nsonga iti ya 8000m yomwe ikupezeka?

Cho Oyu (8188m) imadziwika kuti ndiye nsonga yofikirika kwambiri ya 8000m chifukwa cha malo otsetsereka komanso njira yopanda luso. Nyengo yabwino komanso njira yopitira yofikirako imapangitsa kukhala njira yabwino kwa okwera omwe amayesa nsonga yawo yoyamba ya 8000m.

Kodi phiri lotsika mtengo kwambiri la 8000m kukwera ndi liti?

Manaslu (8163m) nthawi zambiri ndiye nsonga yotsika mtengo kwambiri ya 8000m kukwera. Chiwongola dzanja chotsikirapo komanso zofunikira zochepa zogwirira ntchito poyerekeza ndi nsonga ngati Everest zimapangitsa kukhala njira yotsika mtengo kwa okwera omwe akufuna kukwera phiri la 8000-m.

Ndi Mapiri 3 ati omwe ali ovuta kwambiri?

K2, Annapurna, ndi Nanga Parbat ndi nsonga zitatu zovuta kwambiri. Mapiri amenewa ndi odziwika bwino chifukwa cha zovuta zaukadaulo, kuchuluka kwa anthu omwe amafa, komanso nyengo yosayembekezereka, zomwe zimafuna kuti okwera phirili azikhala ndi luso komanso luso lapadera.

Kodi ndingathe kuchita nsonga zitatu popanda maphunziro?

Kuyesa kukwera nsonga zitatu zokwera pamafunika kuphunzitsidwa kwambiri. Kukwera m'mwamba kumafuna kuwongolera thupi, luso laukadaulo, ndi kuzolowera kuti mupewe ngozi zazikulu, monga matenda oopsa amapiri, omwe amatha kupha.

Ndi nsonga 8000 iti yomwe ili yovuta kwambiri?

K2 (8611m) ndiye nsonga yovuta kwambiri ya 8000m. Njira zotsetsereka za phirili, njira zamaluso, kugwa kwa chigumukire kawirikawiri, ndi nyengo yosadziŵika bwino zimapanga malo ovuta kwambiri ndi owopsa okwera phirili, zomwe zimafuna okwerawo kukhala ndi luso lapamwamba ndi kupirira.

Kodi nsonga yovuta kwambiri kukwera ndi iti?

K2 (8611m) nthawi zambiri imatengedwa kuti ndi nsonga yovuta kwambiri chifukwa cha nyengo yake yoipa, njira zokwerera mwaluso kwambiri, komanso mafunde amvula pafupipafupi. Zinthu zimenezi zimaphatikizana kuti zibweretse mavuto aakulu kwambiri padziko lonse okwera mapiri.

Kodi K2 kapena Annapurna ndizovuta?

K2 nthawi zambiri imakhala yovuta kuposa Annapurna chifukwa cha njira zake zokwerera mwaukadaulo, nyengo yoyipa, komanso kuchuluka kwa anthu omwe amafa. Ngakhale Annapurna ndiwowopsa kwambiri, zovuta zina zaukadaulo za K2 zimapangitsa kuti kukwera kovutirapo.

Ndi phiri liti lomwe limapha anthu okwera kwambiri?

Annapurna I ali ndi chiŵerengero chapamwamba kwambiri cha anthu omwe amafa mpaka pamwamba pa nsonga za 8000m, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti likhale phiri lakupha kwambiri kwa okwera. Chiwopsezo chachikulu cha kuphulika kwa chigumukire ndi nyengo yowopsa imathandizira kwambiri pachiwopsezo chake, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti anthu ambiri azipha.

Ndi matupi angati omwe ali pa Annapurna?

Akuti pafupifupi okwera 60 amwalira ku Annapurna, ndipo matupi ambiri atsala paphiripo chifukwa cha malo achinyengo komanso ovuta, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti ntchito yochira ikhale yovuta komanso yowopsa.